Lobsters and Ribbons for Valentine's Day, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 14, 2012

Well it seemed calmer today so we ventured back to Smith's Reef for another go. Calmer winds, maybe but a strong current under the surface. Although we struggled to move against it we were rewarded for our effort. Today we saw a couple of ribbon-like moray eels moving about in the coral. One fascinated us by weaving its way up from the base of the coral to the upper edges where we lost sight of it. Another one was having a confrontation with a Nassau grouper. The grouper was staying put so the eel took off. Three lobsters were spotted today, one being the large one I have seen on two previous occasions. It does get easier to spot them when you know where they live! Today I got a face-to-face view but it was hard for me to stay in one place. The lobster took the staring contest. Ian pointed out the others. It just seemed easier today to find lobsters and the eels had been elusive up to this point. Alas, no camera today.

Late in the afternoon we went to Magnolia to savour the view, red wine and spring rolls. As it was Valentine's Day there were lots of guests. Afterwards we went to Tiki Hut. Here it was unusually quiet so we had no trouble getting a table outside. I dined on an incredible hamburger (not lobster) with bacon and cheese and a side order of sweet potato fries while Ian devoured two portions of baby back ribs.

It turns out that the Tiki Hut has a regular evening guest looking for handouts. Ian saw the night heron when he went to the washroom so we went back to observe and take photos. It was a lovely Valentine's Day.

The Intrepid Snorkeller, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 13, 2012

Grey skies and strong winds prevail. Smith's Reef was not inviting. Ian wasn't sure if he wanted to go in which is rare for him. I knew for sure that I was not! Well, when Ian spotted three snorkellers braving the conditions he wasn't about to be shown up so in he went. Ian, the intrepid snorkeller reported that it was a bumpy ride with poor visibility but he did get to swim with two eagle rays. I was happy to sit on the beach which I had to myself.

Grey Trigger Fish

This afternoon for wont of nothing better to do I went snorkelling with Ian at The Bight. The conditions under the water reminded me of a snowstorm but instead of snow there was sand drifting on to the coral and in my face, reducing visibility. The fish didn't look very comfortable. The only highlight was a couple of trigger fish, one being a grey one. It was a very tiring snorkel and a long walk home. We stopped at the convenience store. I ate a Snicker's Bar and that made the trek all worth while. There really isn't anything like chocolate to make you feel good!

Ice-cream Day! Turks and Caicos, Feb. 12, 2012

We woke up to clouds this morning and it wasn't long before the rain came and went. The weather continued to be hot and windy. Couldn't stay in so Ian and I ventured to the Bight with the intention of snorkelling. Seeing white caps in close both of us opted out and continued our walk westward along the beach. My craving for freshly made island ice-cream (why me?) had us venture a very long way to  the Sibonne Resort. The resort is quaint or could be described as having a cottage feel. Apparently it was the first hotel built on Grace Bay Beach. At the Bay Bistro you can look out to the ocean but today they put down some coverings to keep the sand from blowing in.
The restaurant is for fine (and expensive) dining in a casual beach atmosphere. We were only here for the home-made ice-cream. Three scoops were served in a coconut shell for $7.00. I sampled rum and raisin, coconut and chocolate. All good but not as special as I was anticipating. Of course it was a long walk back into the wind; so glad I brought my hoodie.
Skyped Cam and Brenda and Jessie. Interesting news.

Hockey Day in Canada, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 11, 2012

It has been getting hotter every day and on my walk I really felt the intense heat. Hard to think about hockey. To cool off I joined Ian for a snorkel at Smith's Reef. We slowly cruised around the coral. I wanted to find an octopus but never found one. I did find a good sized spiny lobster. Two eagle rays joined us for a swim. Also saw an ocean trigger fish and a tiny juvenile queen angel.
F. and B. Skyped us from Progresso, Mexico. They showed us around their cottage via web cam. They seem to be having a wonderful time.
But on point... today is Hockey Day in Canada and that would mean little to us but our neighbours invited us over for the occasion. Pizzas from Baci were the fare for the evening. The Montreal Canadiens whipped The Leafs. The big question of the evening: "Who dressed Sundin for his sweater hanging ceremony?"

Three Kings, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 7, 2012

Today we were visited upon by three kings! Truly I have never seen such a mystic entrance. At Smith's Reef Ian and I swam out a bit further to another section of coral. We were excited to spot one large and one small ocean trigger fish and below them, just leaving the coral, a turtle. Then out of the darkness, across the grass came three spotted eagle rays in triangular formation; a sight we had never seen before. The three were grazing and so in no hurry to swim away from us. Actually it was like we weren't even there. We were able to swim over top and take a good look. As they dispersed we followed two of them as they went over the coral reef. What an awesome experience! Did we have a camera? No.

In the afternoon we went back to S.R.. Although we couldn't expect the magic of the morning, we could hope. As it turned out the snorkelling was almost as good. This time Ian was equipped with his camera mask. Two turtles approached us from different directions and then criss-crossed in front of us. Two eagle rays swam with us and this time Ian captured their magnificence. What could we expect tomorrow on our big snorkelling excursion?

Strong Currents, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 6, 2012

A beautiful morning! Ian and I are getting pretty good at relaxing on the patio, me with my tea. But the sea was calling to Ian so he went off for a snorkel at Smith's Reef. When he returned he said the current was quite strong and he felt like he was being pushed away from the shore. Thus, for his safety, he ended the tour. Meanwhile in our little enclave of peace and beauty, I sat and finished reading "The Cat's Table" by Michael Ondaatje. Although he created several interesting characters, the plot was slow to develop and after the waiting the ending was less than satisfying. Some of the events were a trifle unbelievable.

In the afternoon Ian and I walked to Coral Gardens in hopes that the current would not be as strong there. We saw a large school of horse-eyed jacks, some barracuda and a good sized Green Turtle. However, it was like we were on a conveyer belt with the current deciding where we should go. Unfortunately we were not drifting where we wanted to be. At least it was not further out to sea. We swam to shore and got out quite a ways from where we had started.
Luckily for us there was a nice beach bar. So we had drinks at Somewhere Cafe. I enjoyed a delicious Pina Colada, the first of my trip.

Blue Spotted Cornet Fish, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 10, 2012

Blue Spotted Cornet Fish

Surprise! It looked like we weren't going to see anything exciting today when lo and behold I came across a blue spotted cornet fish on the edge of some shallow coral. It just shows that you have to be patient and things will come to you. This fish was not as big as the first one we spotted at The Bight but it was beautiful.We were able to observe it for a while as it swam through the grass
In the evening I stood alone on a dark beach while Ian went night snorkelling. Who was more at risk, I wonder. Ian reported that he saw a 6 foot nurse shark that wasn't too happy to have a light shone in its face. He also spotted a lobster, squid (the first and only of our trip), and a small sting ray. I was happy for him and happy to get off the beach.
We freshened up and walked down to Sharkbite for dinner. What a happening place. Lots of locals who all knew each other and greeted each other with hugs and kisses. Several cougars! Quinton, a musical duo, entertained us with some familiar island tunes.

Nice Day for a Boat Ride, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 8, 2012

Today was supposed to be the big day. Ian had organized a full day of snorkelling with Big Blue Unlimited. He had been promised he would see "great stuff". The snorkelling trip was not meant for beginners or fun for the whole family. This would be some serious snorkelling off the wall at French Cay. We should have clued in when we were told the big boat had technical troubles and we would be on a smaller boat with no head. Instead of French Cay we would snorkel off the northwest point of Provo and around West Caicos.

West Caicos

The group leaving Leeward were our two guides/drivers Mark and Mario, Mark's aunt from Great Britain, and a couple from Quebec. (Three of the group were not serious snorkelers so this was another clue to how the day would go.) There was a lot of talk about seeing whales and to keep on the look for them. There wasn't a whale in sight the whole day.
 A lot of the snorkelling was done in shallow water and we were warned about and taught to identify fire coral. We saw Queen trigger fish and black durgons and a lot of fire coral; not quite what we expected. There were several large examples of elkhorn coral at another site and an eagle ray. 

Lunch was served in a beautiful sheltered area of West Caicos. Dining on sandwiches, fresh veggies, hummus and juice we discussed movies and other subjects and just enjoyed the sun and colours of the sea.

Bat Wing Crab

 On our last snorkel Ian found a nurse shark and led Mario and I over to have a look. Ian managed to shoot a mini video as it swam away. Mario pointed out a bat wing crab and another very thin crab which I have not yet identified.  This wasn't the trip that Ian and I had envisioned (sharks, large pelagics) but it was a fine boat ride in which we saw the sea show off beautiful hues of blues and purple. Over the day we circumnavigated the island of Providenciales.
The snorkelling trip was expensive and a bust. At Smith's Reef we saw so much more and saw it all for free.
We did enjoy the chicken and ribs at the Tiki Hut with T, K and H as our company. Later we were treated to fireworks in honour of the Queen.

Superbowl Sunday, Turks and Caicos, Feb. 5, 2012

When the game started today the temperature was in the high seventies dropping from a comfortable eighty-one. A few scattered clouds today but enough sun to keep the vitamin D soaking into our pores. It's an unusual experience for us on Superbowl Sunday.
Ian went snorkelling this morning while I tidied up as we would be hosting a party of four for the game. Later the two of us prepped  part of the meal. Ian made his very tasty version of chili while I made a dip for the fresh veggies. There would also be corn chips and salsa. We had time for an afternoon snorkel and just went to the site opposite Vista Azul. Not a good choice. It seemed like we swam forever and saw next to nothing. Sometimes that happens but it is pretty rare on this island.
Dinner was great. Our guests, T & K, brought coleslaw with raisins and sunflower seeds, home made corn bread and oatmeal cookies. What wonderful guests! The game was an exciting one although neither of us liked either team. We decided to cheer for the Giants as they are in the same division as The Cowboys. Turned out that we all cheered for the Giants but not for Madonna.

Surprise Bump! TCI Feb. 4, 2012

Since we still had the rental car we thought we would drive to snorkel The Bight Reef. We were just opposite the Vista Azul when Ian broke hard. Whoa! There was a speed bump. We were pretty sure that there wasn't one there yesterday. It was just raised black tar which is why we didn't notice it until we were going up over it. Later while out walking there was a crew painting the white lines and they uncovered the sign indicating the new speed bump. We don't think we were the only ones surprised.

The afternoon was my time to enjoy the pool and do some reading. Of course Ian went snorkelling!  The video above is of a large school of Horse-eyed Jacks.